Bella Roma - part 2

Like a rock concert for God, and the man himself (not Charlton Heston)

Day 5 - WEDNESDAY Vatican day. I donned a black dress - very chic, very cool - and Tom asked, "Why are you wearing that?" I said, "I like how it looks and it is really comfortable for walking around in." And then later, when we were surrounded by believers at St. Peter's he asked, "Why are you wearing that?" "I wanted to be respectful," I said. "I KNEW IT!!!" he said. "You are more Catholic than me!" You'd think that, but I suspect he has his own line to God, because when we woke up he said, "We are going to see the Pope today." And we did. But more of that in a moment. We hurried through breakfast and onto the metro because we didn't have tickets to the Vatican Museum, but thought that the crowds shouldn't be too bad since it was early in the day, off season and a Wednesday. So it was surprising to be packed in the metro car with other people, all of whom disembarked at the same stop we did. It was a mad rush up the street, toward St. Peter's, with me elbowing the odd German teenager who cut me off at an intersection. Of course we didn't know exactly where the Vatican Museum was, but figured everyone must be going there, I mean, WHY ELSE would anyone go to the Vatican on a Wednesday?

So we arrive at St. Peters and there is a massive horde lining up. Discouraged, we decide to bag it (there was an issue of Tom not wearing any sunscreen that day because he thought he would be inside all day and it was VERY bright outside) and stood outside the barricades at the top of the square watching people filter in after going through security. We finally asked an American couple what was going on and they replied, "The Pope is going to be here in about 30 minutes!" thinking we were crazy for not knowing that. Humph. Really? I looked at Tom and said, "How did you know?" "I know things," he said. And that is how a lapsed Catholic and a Presbyterian get to see the Pope. By accident. We ended up getting inside the square to better see the giant screens that broadcast the Pope Mobile driving around with the Pope waving to the crowds and then showed the German cardinal reading out the parishes who were visiting that day (in German), so when he said, "The blah blah blah church from Koln," the 20 or so people in the crowd who were from that parish all yelled and waved little flags. It was seriously like a rock concert for God. Or the man who is God on Earth. Or something. When Pope Benedict gave the benediction, we genuflected and left in order to actually find the Vatican Museum. Which we did. And there were no lines.

A fawn in the Vatican. Paganism is bad, but apparently, not as collectibles.

The museum was impressive and the Sistine Chapel was breathtaking. I was prepared to be underwhelmed by it, but just like "David" in Florence, it is absolutely incredible in person. You are not allowed to take photos or speak loudly while you are in the room, so you have to tune out the guards repeating, "NO PHOTOS. SILENCE." in loud monotones to fully appreciate the environment, which is difficult because people keep taking photos and talking loudly. This annoyed me, and I took out my annoyance on an old couple who spoke no English. When she took a flash photo and I turned to glare at her, he smiled a consipratorial smile and put his finger to his lips. Like THAT is going to work. I squinted and spit out, "Have some re-SPECT!" and walked away, taking my high horse with me. Tom, of course, was taking photos from his hip the entire time we were there. Yin, meet yang.

Michelangelo is going to be soooo pissed when he hears you photographed his ceiling!

Tom, whose Papal dispensation lasted all of five minutes.

After the museum, we wandered around Vatican City, had a glass of wine overlooking the dome and went back to go into St. Peters. Massive. Beautiful. Many priests on the dais -- like 30 of them -- which made me nervous. Such perfect architecture and design which was what moved me. After being in so many churches, large and small, crowded and empty, this one left me the coldest in terms of feeling the spirit, but absolutely blew my mind in terms of what man can build and create.

St. Peters

Day 6 - THURSDAY

I had to have "Roman Holiday" moment, and the hand of truth was it.

Not much to report from Thursday. At last we had seen everything that we felt we needed to see and could just wander and enjoy it all. And we really did. We got a late start and wound up having cappuccinos at a cluttered corner bar that we promptly fell in love with. I bought my fancy Italian shoes. Tom checked in on Rabito and the score of the Giants game while I was buying my fancy Italian shoes. We walked around a lot more, met Marco's friend Pricilla for a coffee, went to the most popular Chinese restaurant in Rome, which happened to be up the street from us. In order to get a table, we had to get there early at 7:00. We could have waited until 7:30 or even 7:45, but by 8:00, it was packed. The food was good -- really good. 

Chinese food in Rome is ever so dreamy.

Then we walked back into the center to see what the Trevi Fountain, wedding cake, Pantheon, etc. look like at night. Beautiful, but it was disheartening to be in the middle of tourist mecca at night, when the purse sellers and pan handlers with puppies come out. On the way back to the hotel we took a new route and walked straight through a red carpet event complete with cameras and beautiful people. That was funny.

Old men, a bike and a cart at Campo di' Fiore.

Day 7 - FRIDAY
What an amazing day. We went to Campo di Fiore and Piazza Novona, wandering around the small streets that run behind each area. Vintage shops abounded and I found my perfect Italian purse sitting on a table, minding its own business. I fell in love with it and bargained superbly for it -- my style of bargaining, which is deciding what I am willing to pay, start there and stay there no matter what. And pay in cash. Other highlights: Fresh fig sorbet!!! Saltimbocca, which is a carnivore's delight. Grilled artichoke. Old men by the market who were selling an old bike out of the back of a cart but were more intent on gossiping. Warm sun and white wine. A slow and easy afternoon.

Katie and Constantine.

Day 8 - SATURDAY
What a difference a week made. Our last visit was to the Capitoline Museum so I could see the giant head of Constantine. I remember seeing the slide of the head in art history class, and I really wanted to see it in person. Not enough to make a special trip, but since we had time, and it was the last day, and the she-wolf was there too, we decided to go. And it was so worth it! Big head, big foot, big hand and big arm. But Tom's arm is bigger, albeit on a smaller scale. The museum was a good note to end on and on the way back to the hotel I passed by a souvenier stand and shot the photo of all the stuff that lead off the first Rome posting. One thing I wonder is whether or not Pope Benedict feels a little bit like a lesser pope, considering that Pope JPII is still everywhere, souvenier-speaking. Just a thought. Another weird thing? A man had climbed up a building crane and was standing in the basket-part with his hands held out like Jesus. There were police and firemen standing underneath, but they didn't seem too concerned. Perhaps he is there every Saturday. Wish I was!